Hatchling/juvenile geckos are maintained individually or in pairs in professional rack systems from Animal Plastics. For individuals, a 6 quart shoe box is sufficient, when space is an issue, I try to use 15 quart tubs. the set up is simple, with paper towel substrate, a styrofoam meat tray for a hide, a water bowl and a food bowl. For water and food, I like the tealite candle holders from IKEA, as they are tall enough to contain mealworms, clear for the geckos to see their food, and easy to clean. After the first few feedings, I add calcium/mineral powder to the food dish. Paper towels are moistened during the first couple of weeks, to help with shedding issues. I rarely offer crickets, and mainly to breeding females or fat-tails if necessary. Mealworms are the feeder of choice, and hatchlings receive 5 mealworms each day as long as they’re eating. At around a month I will increase to 7-10 mealworms per day. This set up proves to provide optimal growth without overfeeding, something I see very common these days, especially where Giants are concerned. The simple truth is the gecko will grow to his/her full size in time, and there is no need to overfeed or powerfeed. I use weight to measure health, but never to determine genetics.
Adults are maintained individually during the winter, or in groups of 2 females and one male in a sweater box type tub during breeding season. Most of the males are moved between groups, depending on genetics. I monitor all animals for weight loss, especially throughout the breeding season, and males will be removed if health issues are suspected. Females will also be separated if necessary and maintained individually.